🔍 Accident & Car History Check

A complete checking order for UAE and imported used cars. Do not rely on one report: combine online records, documents, physical inspection and a test drive.

Golden rule: “No record found” does not prove “no accident”. A collision may be unreported, repaired privately, recorded in another emirate/country, or missing from a database.

1. Get the correct VIN / chassis number

A modern VIN normally has 17 characters. Ask the seller for a clear photo before travelling.

2. Check UAE accident records

Emirates Vehicle Gate (EVG)

  1. Open the official EVG Traffic Accidents service.
  2. Enter the complete chassis/VIN number and complete the security check.
  3. Review accident dates, locations and available damage information or diagrams.
  4. Save a screenshot/PDF for comparison, but do not treat an empty result as a guarantee.

Abu Dhabi Police / TAMM

  1. Use the official Abu Dhabi Police Accidents Inquiry or search “View Vehicle Accident History” in TAMM.
  2. Enter the chassis number; TAMM may request UAE Pass sign-in.
  3. Compare all displayed accidents with the seller's explanation and repair invoices.

Dubai RTA Technical Vehicle Status Report

  1. Open the official RTA report service, or use RTA Dubai / Dubai Now with UAE Pass.
  2. Select Vehicle Licensing → Vehicle Technical Status Report, choose the vehicle and language, then pay.
  3. The listed basic fee was AED 120 when this guide was checked in September 2026; confirm the current amount before paying.
  4. The owner must consent to disclosure. Delivery is normally electronic within one working day.
RTA limitation: RTA states this report does not include vehicle accident data and may have incomplete history. It can still help with available ownership, insurance, inspection and imported-vehicle information. Never use it instead of an inspection.

3. Check an imported car in its country of origin

OriginChecksWhat to look for
USANHTSA VIN Decoder, NICB VINCheck, and a paid NMVTIS-approved history providerCorrect model/specification, salvage/total-loss or unrecovered-theft record, title brands, odometer entries and auction history. NHTSA decodes specifications; it is not a crash-history report. NICB is limited and is not a complete history report.
CanadaProvincial/title and paid history records; search the exact VIN onlineSalvage/rebuilt branding, insurance loss, auction photos, kilometres versus miles and corrosion.
JapanAsk for original export/auction sheet and verify it with an independent specialistAuction grade, repair marks, mileage/export certificate and signs of a translated or altered sheet.
Europe / KoreaUse the correct national or manufacturer history source where availableRegistration, inspection mileage, insurance loss, taxi/fleet use and corrosion. Coverage differs by country.

Search the VIN in quotation marks on a search engine. Old auction listings and damage photos sometimes remain online. Match colour, trim, wheels and impact area with the car in front of you.

4. Read accident severity, not only the accident count

One severe structural crash can be worse than several small parking accidents. Ask an independent body/chassis specialist to measure alignment and paint depth.

5. Physical accident and paint check

6. Mileage fraud check

7. Flood and water-damage check

Flood damage can return later as wiring, airbag, sensor and transmission faults. A passing roadworthiness test does not guarantee freedom from water damage.

8. Final safe buying order

  1. Verify seller, Mulkiya and VIN.
  2. Run UAE checks and origin-country checks.
  3. Compare service history and mileage evidence.
  4. Cold-start and test-drive the car.
  5. Pay for an independent pre-purchase inspection including chassis, paint meter, computer scan, engine, gearbox, cooling, brakes, tyres and underbody.
  6. Get an insurance quote using the exact VIN before paying a deposit.
  7. Write VIN, price, deposit conditions, known damage and refund condition on the signed agreement.
  8. Complete payment with official ownership transfer—not before.
Best decision: Buy the condition and documented history, not the seller's story or a low price.
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